It's very simple.
It's built out of 80/20 aluminum extrusions, specifically 1515 and 1010, i.e. 1.5x1.5", and 1x1".
The main idea is simple. It's a rectangular 1515 frame, center to center exactly the center to center width of a narrow sliding racing seat I bought from Amazon. The center to center is about 14.5". Some of the regular wider racing chairs on Amazon would be too wide and would eat into F-16's side panel and control stick space. There are two 4x4" wood post bought from HomeDepot for widening the "stance" and mounting 4x office chair casters. Otherwise this thing would easily flip over when you lean to one side or the other during dog fights (I can't help it!). That was the main load bearing structure.
Then, I put two 2020 gates up front for mounting the center console and other stuff.... other stuff means retractable and/or replaceable trays for keyboard, mouse, etc. They must be lockable for they don't move, preferably with quick connect handles etc. I am not mounting any heavy stuff like a 43" monitor on it or something. So, there is really no need to do bracing. But you could if you want to.
The "retractable" part was implemented with two solid OD=1" aluminum rods, with 3D printed "hardware", and with quick connect handles. So far, I have 3 panels.
- An F-16 center console, including ICP, MFDs, under construction as usual.
- A plank for a TM driving wheels, and mini-keyboard, and a mouse.
- A plank for just keyboard/mouse for stowing under the table.
The front part of the pit is designed to go under my gaming table (an Ikea 92" long dinning table). Anything in front of the "rear" gate is supposed to be under the table... but who's counting. Plus, I reconfigured this thing so often, moving the gates forward backward depending on which side of the bed I roll off that morning.
Then, there are the two side rail system for mounting control stick and panels.... just like the side panels of most fighters cockpit. They are made of 10x10 extrusions. The idea is simple... I have no idea how screwed up DCS' cockpit dimensions and Quest Pro's re-projection are, so the only way to have the physical knobs and switches to match what's in VR is to live calibrate them.... therefore, I need maximum flexibility to adjust the locations of each panel. See the side rails? They are simply screwed in with some aluminum L-brackets.... you can adjust their X, Y, and even Z locations anyway you like, within limit.... now, if you need to go off the limit... well, cut a couple more 10x10 extrusions, and be done in 20 minutes. Hell, if you want to create the 10 degree tilt of the F-16 side panels with these rails, you can easily do so in a few minutes.
The center "panels" are designed to be replaceable in minutes. Swapping them can be done within 5 minutes. Of course I have a bunch of 3D printed stoppers, connectors etc. to fix them to the "right" locations.
The "foot" platform was made of 2x 2'x4' stacked 3/4" plywood screwed together to create a large platform for a woodworker T-slot rail system for sliding the TM TPR rudder forward and backward. I thought of putting in horizontal sliding rails... nah... not necessary. But you could, if you want. Then, at the rear of the TPR, there is a 0.1" thick aluminum sheet to serve as a foot heel sliding sheet. It's bolted under the TPR so that it slides back forth with the TPR. 0.1" thick? Why? Well... because the 2x 3/4" are nominal dimension "lumber". Their true dimension is 3/4" - 0.05"... so, the 0.1" is just right to fill the "gap."
The original was built in a weekend, with just a rough idea in my head and all the materials available. No sketch, no design... just go for it. Most of the time was actually spend in the garage cutting and drilling out the numerous L-brackets. Trust me, you want to use L-brackets... because if you buy the "connectors" from the suppliers... it will cost you some pretty pennies... It's like the ink jet printers... lost leader deal.
Then it evolved after it was first built. I must have completely torn it down and rebuilt it more than 5 times, plus numerous number of minor adjustments, like redesigning some connectors, quick locking mechanisms, positioners, etc.
There is no point asking me for the design or 3D models... The idea is quite simple. The point is the flexibility. I have no idea what extrusions you can get at your locality, and what kinds of money you are willing to spend. For instance, 80/20 is the original US-based company selling such extrusions. They are... very expensive! Just the 1515 rails would cost you an arm and a leg. But if you buy the chinese clones... it could be 1/3 the price for "similar" parts. In the Metric system, you could just get some cheap 25x25s, and 40x40s, etc. etc. So, you see, there is no point asking me for the design of the frame, nor even the BOM. If you build it, it will be totally depending on what chair you get, and what other materials you get. Hell, even your L-brackets are going to be different from mine.
However, the assorted 3D printed "connectors" and positioners might be a good source to get you kick started to adapt them to whatever you have in mind. Ask in the comments section, and I will send them to you, or publish them.
Oh, that don't look like a "pit"??? Well... get your head out of your ass. Says who a pit must look certain way. This pit is for VR... I don't see none of it with the goggle on! I just feel something with my hands. If it looks like a pit in VR, and feels like a pit in my hands, it's a pit! Quack or not. It's not a Moen... I don't "build" it for the looks.
PS... you see the damned peeling paint on my Warthog stick? Don't clean it with 409!
Comments
Post a Comment