Hemp’s Flight Sim Stuff

The screenshots speak for themselves.

Many prints, prototypes, corrections... 

Friends don't let friends do LDPE! Your wife is going to be pissed off at you for doing it. Good news... LDPE is not compatible with Nylon... so it doesn't bond with Nylon. But the bad news is that it slumps too much and pretty much disintegrated, making using the bag in the Anova Precision Oven completely moot. Now my oven smells plastic. It started slumping at about 8 hrs, just like in the previous test. So, I guess in the glass state, LDPE has very low viscosity... so it looked like it melted, but it's not... it just "slumped." It's like glass... technically glass is not exactly a solid, it's an amorphous solid... it flows. The LDPE bag in glass transition state is like that too, just much less viscous. But because it does not bond with Nylon, it's very easy to peel off. When it cools, it's very easy to get off stainless steel too. So, cleaning up the mess isn't too much of a trouble.... it's the lingering plastic smell that is gonna pis...

Sous Vide test on the F16-like Controller printed in Nylon12+CF (PA12 with Carbon Fiber) is a success! It passed the fit tests with other parts that are not annealed. Note that this test is not to test the strength of the annealed part! I currently do not have equipments to conduct such tests. I will take the words of literature for it. The purpose of this test is to test the viability of using an Anova Precision Oven in Sous Vide mode for annealing a Nylon12 artifact, holding it at 100˚C for 12 hours, without ruining my oven, nor the artifact. And whether that process would distort the parts, or any other problems. Indeed, I found a problem. You can find in the picture below that there are some "shining" surfac patches. These are where the plastic bag touched the artifact. The temperature is not high enough to melt the bag, evidently because when I took out the bag, it was still "dry" looking, and kind of brittle, where it did not touch the artifact. My guess is th...

 I mean, Annealing!

 

Added the grooves (marked by the two red circles in the 2nd picture) for assembly of genuine OTTO trigger assembly to accommodate the protrusion of "rivets" used on the trigger assembly. Note that, I intend to design my own optical trigger assembly, but it WILL follow the same form factor of the genuine OTTO article, probably not down to the rivet protrusion, but I am just 1. leave the option of using genuine OTTO part, and 2. my own design most likely will need the pivot "rivet" as well. So, this is just a quick partial print for a fit test, taking advantage of the new fast printing of the new Bambu X1C printer, with their PLA filament. Also, this revision has a "notch" on the body (just above the two red circles), to the right (from the camera's PoV) of the trigger to allow wirings of the optical assembly to go through, instead of running the wires through the cooling conduits. There are so many wires, minimum of 30 wires. So, they would have to be s...

F16-like stick body, PLA Matte printing with 100% infill, settings for strength, adaptive layers turned on... PLA support material, no post processing, just fresh out of the printer, with the support removed. As you can see, the area the support touch does not have too great a texture. But, it's nothing a bit of aggressive sanding wouldn't take care of. In particularly, one of the reason why the artifact was rotated and sliced this way is that the best face would be facing the end user, and this "ugly" part has more "meat" for sanding. While removing the support, I can already feel that the PLA support material is so much easier to remove than the Nylon12 Carbon Fiber due to its weaker strength and being much more brittle than Nylon. I think this material/print will hold for home user, if proper core support (say vacuum bagging in epoxy/fiber shaft, or using the originally designed two halves split with a central carbon fiber shaft to take the load. It shoul...

  Added some what I called "assembly grooves", or "assembly features" on the F16-like control stick body for the one solid body stick. The two-halves body does not need this "feature." Here's why and what it is. You see, when I bought a genuine OTTO U2-16 trigger assembly (about USD $150+, see picture below), and 3D modeled it for designing the control stick, I did not model the two small rivets, and the large hollow rivet that also serves as the pivot point. They actually extruded out of the side faces by something like 0.3mm. I didn't think it significant to model. Plus, I chose the two halves split as you see in the picture below. That... once I tighten the two halves with some M3 stainless steel screws... will compress the soft PLA body to accommodate the "extra" thickness of the rivets. Well... not quite... pivot rivet got compressed... sure the assembly went well... but... due to the compressive forces, now the trigger get stuck. So...

  This post is to set a baseline for what's going on before the move to here. Basically, I have been posting progress updates of my controller projects on DCS forums, after the debacle with ViperPits. I refuse to publish anything until I can figure out how to share stuff without getting them stolen and then be accused of me stealing from LMCO for using a caliper to reverse engineer 3D models from LMCO's F16 (and other fighter jet parts, genuine parts). However, I recently discovered DCS forum has this 200MB upload limits per account, apparently. That's not good. Because I have tons of pictures... and each is easily 1MB or bigger. I have hit the limit now. Whether that limit has always been there or it's a new one... doesn't matter. The fact is that I am exceeding that limit, and I can't post more pictures there anymore. I have created this blogger space long time ago... but never really used it. It was one of the options when I considered posting the progress of...

DCS forum, where I original post my sim controller stuff are stingy on disk space. 200MB per account upload of attachments. For people like me who post progress of controller design/construction at home... lots of pictures, and each pictures easily go over 1MB... not big pictures... but you do want to see high resolution pictures in order to see details, like these... In this day and age when disk space is dirt cheap there is really no reason to limit to such 1990 era low standard. So, I will consider moving the stuff here. It's too much trouble reposting old stuff... so I will just post new stuff here, instead following 90's standard.