Hemp’s Flight Sim Stuff

After weeks of struggling with the two stage trigger mechanism, I finally got it working! This is a difficult one. The difficulty lies in making it work consistently with durability. The former is made even more difficult by my desire of using all 3D printed parts, and eventually, I had to use some metal parts made with a mini-lathe. I imagine that you could use drill press with a good file to make this stuff, but it would require a lot of skills and patience. If you had that skill, you most likely has a lathe anyway. The one stage is easy. It's just the tolerance and nozzle diameter need to be considered and tested. And if you are willing to pay through the nose, you can buy springs at highly marked up prices for small quantity at Lee Springs online. It's not that I have a problem with high markup prices Lee's charges. It's a common practice to charge more for small quantity, as selling a small quantity order costs pretty much the same as a large quantity order, yet it...

F-16 ICP analog wheels prototype works! That includes the PCB, MLX90316 chip, calibration, and programming of the sensor. Inside is a ball bearing, an MLX90316 chip/PCB, a few screws and mechanical stop. It will rotate 340 degrees, and stopped by a mechanical stop made with a screw and a 3D printed stop. They are programmed in-situ to output about 0.02 to 3.259 V, depending on the variation in 3D printing. It's almost rail-to-rail. A little Windows calibration will do just fine. Also, the input power supply is 5V, but the MLX900316 chip is programmed to output between 0.0V to 3.3V (clamped at 3.3V) so it fits the voltage range of the RPi Pico (Pico has a 5V input, and a 5V output too, and I take power from the 5V output). The two on the left are programmed to go clockwise rotation, and the right two are programmed to rotate counter-clockwise (increment), so that rotating up increases the voltage. For the programming of the MLX90316 chips, I had powered up one of the old old old com...